How to Set Up Any Rest on a Concept Bow

Bow set up questions, bow mechanics, archery related info, etc.
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How to Set Up Any Rest on a Concept Bow

Postby ca-archer » Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:07 pm

Note: You will NEVER get perfect flight if using an incorrect spined arrow. Refer to your manufacturers arrow chart to see what spine you need to shoot for your draw length and draw weight. It's always better to go a little heavy on spine, than to be under spined.

Standard NON-Drop Away Rests
Follow your rests instructions on how to mount the rest to the bow. Generally speaking, most rests will be horizontally level, or 90 degree square when holding the bow vertically.

Vertical Adjusting
Adjust the arrow cradle so that the bottom of the arrow when sitting in the rest, aligns with the bottom of the berger button holes. The berger button holes are the two holes in the riser that your rest screws into. You can set the bottom of the arrow slightly above or in the middle of the berger button holes if you find you are not getting fletching clearance (read below) with a drop away rest. Next you want to set your nock point. To do this, put the arrow on the string and seat it into the cradle of the rest. Next lay a second arrow flat on the riser's arrow shelf. The nocked arrow should ever so slightly angle down towards the other one sitting flat on the arrow shelf. Once you have it positioned to where the strung arrow is on a slight downward angle, attach your brass nock or string loop to the sting. Tighten and recheck to make sure your strung arrow angles slightly down towards the one sitting flat on the riser's arrow shelf.

Horizontal Adjusting
It's recommended to use a laser tool to assist in left or right adjustment. We use the EZE eye laser tuner. Adjust your rest left or right until the laser hits dead center of the string, then dead center of the field tip.

If you don't have a laser tuner, hold the bow as far away from you as possible and align the string down the center of the arrow and then down the center of the riser. Make left or right adjustments on your rest until you get as close to center as possible.

Clearance and Fine Tuning
Check for no rest contact on the fletching by coating both side of the tips of the 3 (or more) fletchings with lipstick - go in a downward motion with the lipstick so and not parallel to the arrow so that any marks on the fletching are easier to see. Next shoot the arrow and if any lipstick is on the rest or marks on your fletching, you will need to make adjustments to your rest before you can paper or bare shaft tune. Once you get fletching clearance, paper tune your arrow at about 8-12 yards. For high or low tears, make adjustments to your nock or string loop. For left or right tears, move your rest. For more detailed instruction on paper tuning you can visit this site: You are looking to get perfect holes in the paper - perfectly round circle for the shaft, and straight lines for the fletching. Once paper tuned, shoot your field points and broadheads into a target to make sure you are getting the same point of impact. If not, you have to fine tune your bow for broadheads. Ideally you want to move your broadheads toward your field point groups until both are hitting the same place. You can find more on other sites about broadhead tuning as well.

Drop Away Rests
For the drop away rests, everything is exactly the same as setting up a stationary rest, other than we have found that the arrow needs to sit higher up from the riser's arrow shelf. This is so that the arrow can easily clear the launcher arm of rest when it falls. So the bottom of the arrow should sit about middle of the berger button holes, but depending on the style of the rest, you may have to the top of the berger button holes. You want your launcher arm to lay flat on the shelf and we usually have it barely make contact with the drop pad that deadens the launcher arms contact to the riser. Once again, you still want a slightly downward angle on your nocked arrow to a second one sitting flat on the arrow shelf.
Tips with Drop Aways:
1) On string driven drop aways, the launcher arm should come up at the very last inch or two of the draw cycle
2) make sure it's dropping fast enough and not making contact with your fletching (we use lipstick to make sure of fletching/vane clearance
3) make sure all screws are snug, check one last time, but don't over tighten either (low/med strength Lock-Tite on known ones to loosen can never hurt)

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